Ibn Danan Synagogue’s interior part with its beautifully ornamented Torah-Ark on the left
photography by: Omri Westmark
Centuries ago, the Mellah of Fez was one of Morocco's epicenters of Jewish life and culture. While nowadays the city's Jewish community barely exceeds 100 members, it still prides itself on having the oldest synagogue in the country. The recently renovated Ibn Danan Synagogue is a vestige of the Jewry of Fez’s days of glory. Awash with intricate ornaments and well-preserved furniture, the building provides a fascinating glimpse into the forgotten past of a rapidly disappearing community.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 00:46 02.08.22
Last Update: 01:50 24.01.25
Encompassing the southern part of Fes El Jdid district, the Mellah of Fez has served for centuries as the home to the city’s Jewish community. While the mass exodus of Jews from Fez during the mid-20th century left the quarter empty of its original inhabitants, some historically significant places have managed to withstand the test of time.
Unassumingly hidden in one of the Mellah’s back alleyways, the Ibn Danan Synagogue is one of North Africa’s oldest synagogues, dating back to the 17th century. As its name probably implies, this place of worship was built by the Ibn Danan family, a wealthy Jewish family whose members were among Fez’s most prominent merchants in the 1600s.
The synagogue, which is one of the Mellah’s oldest surviving buildings, boasts a spectacular mosaic of ornaments, many of which are inspired by local Islamic art. Perhaps the single most impressive element of the whole temple is its Torah Ark, a pair of small niches with carved wooden doors. The ark’s surrounding wall is intricately decorated with Moroccan-style tiles and plaster work, a testament to the strong affinity between the two communities.
The entrance and the synagogue’s Muslim caretaker
photography by: Omri Westmark
The well-lit space is chock-full of wooden benches for Jewish worshippers
photography by: Omri Westmark
A tapestry honoring the restoration of the temple
photography by: Omri Westmark
Several Jewish holy scripts
photography by: Omri Westmark
The synagogue’s main hall
photography by: Omri Westmark
The Torah-Ark, where the Torah scrolls are kept
photography by: Omri Westmark
The Bimah, an elevated platform where the Torah is read during communal gatherings.
photography by: Omri Westmark
The synagogue also has a Mikveh, a bath for ceremonial purposes, where the Anusim (Jews who were forced to leave their religion during the Inquisition) and their descendants were immersed as part of their reconversion to Judaism. A set of exceedingly narrow stairways leads to the women’s courtyard (a section designated for female worshippers) as well as the rooftop, from where one can catch a glimpse of the Mellah and particularly the nearby Jewish Cemetery of Fez.
In stark contrast to its lavish interior, the synagogue’s nondescript entrance door blends perfectly into the urban surroundings, practically unnoticeable to unsuspecting passersby. As the local Jewish community dwindled in numbers over the last few decades, Ibn Danan Synagogue was abandoned and subsequently fell into a state of disrepair, so much so that the building was on the verge of total collapse. It wasn’t until 1996 that this marvelous Jewish monument was thoroughly renovated and returned to its former self.
As of today, the synagogue is rarely used for religious purposes. Instead, groups of Israeli tourists, many of whom are of Moroccan origin, visit the place as part of their quest to explore their roots. A cordial Muslim caretaker constantly oversees the premises, eager to answer any questions a curious visitor might have.
A stairway to the Mikveh on the basement floor
photography by: Omri Westmark
The Mikveh, a ceremonial pool where Jewish devotees were purified
photography by: Omri Westmark
A couple of hanging lamps, a mere fraction of the numerous lamps the synagogue once had
photography by: Omri Westmark
The court of women on the second floor, also known as "Ezrat Nashim"
photography by: Omri Westmark
The claustrophobia-inducing staircase that leads to the second floor
photography by: Omri Westmark
The synagogue's rooftop
photography by: Omri Westmark
The Jewish Cemetery of Fez as seen from the roof
photography by: Omri Westmark
