Seychelles often conjures images of golden sands and crystal-clear waters, a paradise etched in every traveler's dream. But venture beyond its popular coastlines, and you’ll find Victoria, the country's pint-sized capital, blessed with rich history and charm. Housing nearly a third of the nation’s population, this colonial-style town is the cultural heartbeat of Seychelles, offering a treasure trove of culinary, architecture and local hospitality.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 00:33 06.04.21
Last Update: 01:47 08.12.24
Among the country’s most prominent vestiges of its British past, the iconic Victoria Clock Tower, or Lorloz in Creole, is situated in the heart of town, at the intersection of Francis Rachel Street and Independence Avenue. Erected in 1903 to honor Queen Victoria, the clock tower marked a turning point in the islands’ history as they transitioned from Mauritian oversight to a British Crown Colony with local governance.
This cast-iron structure, modeled after the clock at London’s Victoria Station, was the work of Gillett & Johnston of Croydon. Originally painted black, it took on its silver hue during the Jubilee of King George V in 1935. The clock remained silent for much of its existence until a 1999 restoration replaced its spring-driven mechanism with a quartz system, a project undertaken by the original manufacturer. As every square inch of the structure is adorned with intricate Victorian motifs, its Britishness is hard to miss.
Over the years, the clock tower has stood witness to Victoria’s transformation, from a modest colonial townlet to a modern city replete with concrete and glass.
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: seychellesnewsagency.com
photography by: seychellesnewsagency.com
photography by: Hansueli Krapf/ Wikimedia Commons
Located at the busy roundabout where 5th June and Independence Avenues meet, the Bicentennial Monument was unveiled in 1979 to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Victoria, which was established in 1778 by Frenchman Charles Routier de Romainville. Designed by Italian artist Lorenzo Appiani, this quirky sculpture features three pairs of extended white wings, lying side by side amid the surrounding hectic traffic.
While to the untrained eye, the monument might seem somewhat humdrum, its design is in fact rich in symbolism. Its three pairs of wings represent the tri-continental roots of the Seychellois people—Africa, Asia, and Europe, paying homage to the nation’s ethnic diversity. Given their curved shape, the wings also evoke imagery of endemic birds, another important part of the local identity.
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: David Stanley/ Wikimedia Commons
The Indian community in Seychelles has a long history, tracing its origins back to the 19th century when hundreds of Desis arrived as indentured laborers during British colonial rule. Today, descendants of these migrants, particularly from Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, and Kerala, have become integral to the nation’s multicultural fabric. Through festivals like Diwali and Holi, they’ve kept their traditions alive while weaving Indian influences into the Creole culture that dominates the archipelago.
Though islanders of Indian origins can be found throughout the country, their most notable place of worship is the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple in Victoria. Constructed in 1992, the shrine was named after Lord Vinayagar, widely revered in Hinduism as the remover of obstacles and the deity of new beginnings. Its eye-catching design is inspired by the colorful and intricately detailed architecture of South Indian temples.
A defining feature of the temple is its gopuram, a tower-like structure adorned with elaborate carvings of Hindu deities, standing out vividly against the lush green backdrop of the surrounding hills. Visitors can enter the building through a spacious mandapam, or open pavilion, leading to the garbha griha, the inner sanctum. This sacred space, which houses a statue of Lord Vinayagar, is often used for introspection and prayer.
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: So Seychelles/ Flickr
photography by: So Seychelles/ Flickr
photography by: Marco Zanferrari/ Flickr
The Muslim community in Seychelles, comprising a mere 1% of the population, originates from the islands’ historical ties to the Indian Ocean trade routes. While Islam reached the region long before the European discovery of Seychelles, the archipelago itself remained uninhabited until French settlers arrived in the 18th century. Today, the faith, though small in numbers, has established a visible presence, boasting a full-fledged mosque in Victoria.
Erected in 1982, the Sheikh Mohamed bin Khalifa Mosque was the first mosque to be built in Seychelles and as of today, it remains a central hub for Seychellois Muslims. Nestled just off Francis Rachel Street in the Bel Air district, the mosque is best known for its distinctive golden dome. Renovated in 2013, the building can accommodate around 600 worshippers and is particularly teeming with activity during Friday prayers or events promoting interfaith dialogue.
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Anass Sedrati/ Wikimedia Commons
Nestled in the very center of Victoria, the main market is the beating heart of the Seychellois capital, incessantly crammed with shoppers of all walks of life. Originally constructed in 1840 and later renovated in 1999, the market owes its name to Sir Selwyn Clarke, a former governor of Seychelles and a distinguished director of medical services in British-ruled Hong Kong.
While the building’s Victorian-style architecture is yet another relic of the island’s colonial past, it is its present that truly reigns supreme. This bustling marketplace offers a sensory feast, with freshly caught fish displayed alongside fruits, vegetables, and fragrant spices, making it a showcase of the country’s culture and cuisine.
Even before stepping inside, the market’s activity spills onto the surrounding streets, where rainbow-colored sunshades shelter vendors and their produce. Once inside, the main offerings across the place are tropical fruits like papayas, mangoes, and coconuts. These are sometimes presented alongside unusual jams concocted from banana, starfruit, and coconut, among other local fruits.
Reflecting the market’s geographic context is its seafood section, laden with various fish and seafood, including red snapper, barracuda, parrotfish, octopus, squid, and shrimps, all of which are essential ingredients in Seychellois curries known for their delicate flavors. Shoppers can also find here piles of salted fish, a local favorite born from a centuries-old preservation technique.
To escape the sweltering heat, visit the stall run by a cheerful vendor that offers freshly pierced coconuts, perfect as a cooling refreshment. Upstairs, the second floor is home to a handful of fashion and souvenir shops, whose shelves are invariably awash with eclectic collection of traditional knickknacks.
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The market’s seafood section
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
Another important facet of the archipelago’s colonial legacy is the islanders’ adherence to the Catholic faith, introduced by the early French settlers and has since become the dominant religion across the country, so much so that it is now embraced by over 75% of the population.
Perching atop a small hillock along Olivier Maradan Street, the Immaculate Conception Cathedral is among the country’s primary Catholic churches as well as the seat of the Diocese of Port-Victoria. Built in 1874, the cathedral houses the tomb of Felix Paul, Seychelles’ first bishop, unassumingly marked by a plaque embedded within the floor.
The building’s interior features a thoughtful design, with bright and airy spaces that stay cool under the equatorial sun. Outside, a tropical garden envelops the cathedral grounds, where visitors are greeted by a towering crucifix nestled amid the lush vegetation. The grounds also include a chapel and a granite clock tower, the latter of which can be seen from afar.
Adjacent to the cathedral is La Domus, a three-story granite building constructed in the 1930s to house Swiss Capuchin friars conducting religious seminars. Today, this formidable structure accommodates only three priests, with the remaining rooms repurposed for administrative offices.
Daily Masses welcome both locals and visitors, with Sunday services beginning at 7:00 a.m. and weekday schedules tailored to meet the community’s needs.
The cathedral’s main façade
photography by: Omri Westmark
Inside the church
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
On the left – the small chapel, on the right – the clock tower
photography by: Omri Westmark
La Domus
photography by: Omri Westmark
Nestled on the outskirts of town, near the seaport, Jardin des Enfants is a low-key park with a sole, quirky attraction – the LIBRA, an eerie concrete ship resting amid a tidal pond. Connected to the garden by a narrow walkway, this semi-submerged vessel invites visitors to explore its haunting structure.
Its roof offers a precarious vantage point of its empty gut, whose murky waters are now teeming with fish, crabs and various other aquatic critters. Though not much is known about this oddity and how it ended up in its current location, its derelict, skeletal remains are a must-see site for the urbex enthusiasts among you.
Scattered throughout the park are a couple of brightly painted pavilions that occasionally offer snacks, souvenirs, and fast food.
The mysterious vessel known as LIBRA
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The surrounding pavilions
photography by: Omri Westmark
One of Seychelles’ oldest dining establishments, Marie Antoinette is set in a charming 19th-century colonial house, distinguished by its striking wooden steeples.
The restaurant has earned acclaim for its Creole-style menu, boasting various dishes that resonate with the island’s culinary heritage. Seafood curries, breadfruit croquettes, mashed pumpkin, and mango salad with pink peppercorns are just a few of the enticing options. Plucky visitors can also try the bat curry, which despite its somewhat off-putting appearance, is considered a national delicacy.
Each evening, the restaurant offers a special combo platter featuring a plethora of small dishes, allowing diners to explore a variety of Creole flavors without committing to large portions. Beyond its scrumptious food, the restaurant also has a tortoise pen in its backyard, where one can observe these adorable creatures up close.
These tortoises happen to have an arduous backstory: in 2001, severe rains caused their enclosure wall to collapse, leaving them badly injured. Fortunately, thanks to extensive care and attention, they managed to survive, albeit their shells still bear scars from the harrowing event.
The restaurant as seen from outside
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The place’s shelled residents
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
