While many travelers flock to Fiji’s dazzling beaches and emerald waters, the capital city of Suva offers a different, equally rewarding experience. It’s the heart of modern Fijian culture, where you can explore diverse culinary traditions and join the electric energy of a live rugby match. Situated on a small peninsula in the southeastern corner of Viti Levu, the country’s main island, Suva boasts a variety of attractions, with six standing out as particularly noteworthy.
A cornerstone of local life, Suva Municipal Market draws thousands of Fijians each week from both the city and beyond. The market brims with an astonishing variety of goods, including quirky vegetables, exotic fruits, refreshing pineapple juice, and mouthwatering chicken stews. Nestled by the seaport, its sprawling layout spans several buildings.
Among its many victuals, the market is especially known for its Kava stalls. This traditional drink, made from the powdered root of Piper methysticum mixed with water, is deeply rooted in Pacific traditions. Often reserved for ceremonial occasions in rural areas, Kava is also reputed for its anxiety-relieving and other medicinal properties.
Prices are clearly displayed on paper signs, so there’s no need to haggle. The market operates on weekdays from early morning until 6:00 PM, and on Saturdays until 4:00 PM. While visiting the Municipal Market, consider taking a short walk north to the nearby flea market, which is renowned for its selection of garments, souvenirs, and the famed Fijian Tapa cloth, a beautifully patterned fabric made from woven mulberry tree bark.
One of Suva Municipal Market’s many fruit stands
photography by: Matthias Süßen
Don’t let the name fool you, Nukumaroriko Island, or Mosquito Island, is anything but a nuisance. Situated just off Suva’s western coastline, this island offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the Fijian capital throughout the year. Visitors can enjoy several picturesque beaches, including a secluded cove with sweeping ocean views, as well as abundant greenery that provides shade under the tropical sun.
Popular among Suva residents, Mosquito Island is a hub for family outings and social gatherings, making it an ideal spot to meet locals and hear about their culture and history. Accessing the island is simple: either hop on a boat from Novotel Suva Lami Bay or wade through shallow waters during low tide. A $3 entrance fee is charged, and booking your visit in advance is highly recommended.
In a city dominated by modest, single-story homes built from lightweight materials, the monumental stone government buildings in Suva’s city center are a notable oddity.
Constructed during the 1930s, these buildings initially served as the administrative center for British colonial rule. After Fiji achieved independence in 1970, the complex became home to the nation’s parliament for nearly two decades, until a 1987 coup d’état prompted the relocation of the legislative branch. In 2014, the parliament returned to its original home, which now also houses the Supreme Court, the Prime Minister’s Office, and various government ministries.
Designed by British architect Walter Frederick Hedges, the buildings feature an art-deco façade composed of neatly arranged rectangular shapes. At the heart of the complex is a towering clock tower that predates the rest of the structures, built in 1905. This four-faced giant overlooks Albert Park and is crowned with a distinctive dome, making it an eye-catching landmark across the area.
The governmental complex and its clock tower as seen from the nearby Albert Park
photography by: Michael Coghlan
The western side of Viti Levu is cloaked in an expansive rainforest, much of which remains untouched and inaccessible. However, just north of Suva lies Colo-I-Suva Forest Park, offering a glimpse into Fiji’s rich ecosystem. This lush reserve on the outskirts of the capital is a sanctuary for the island’s endemic flora and fauna. In fact, birdwatchers will find plenty to admire, with species such as the golden fruit dove, collared lory, masked shining parrot, and Fiji whistler calling the park home.
The park’s appeal extends far beyond its wildlife. Visitors are drawn to its year-round swimmable pools nestled deep within the forest and the formidable Waisila Falls. Both are fed by the Waisila Creek, which flows through the park and eventually merges with the Waimanu and Rewa rivers, the latter being the largest in Fiji.
Colo-I-Suva is conveniently located about 10 kilometers from downtown Suva and can be reached by car, bus, or a $15 taxi ride. After paying the entrance fee at the main gate, visitors are free to explore the pristine forest via a 1.5-hour hiking trail. This scenic route showcases the park’s various highlights, from its ecosystem to the multiple mid-forest pools and waterfalls.
Waisila Creek cascading its way through the forest
photography by: GBIF
Often likened to Rio de Janeiro’s Sugarloaf Mountain, Mt. Korobaba stands as the tallest peak in the Suva area, soaring over 400 meters. This verdant mountain offers a serene retreat from the city’s commotion and an opportunity to explore Fiji’s unspoiled nature.
The biggest challenge of a day trip to Mt. Korobaba may be simply finding the trailhead. Ensconced behind a local cement factory on Queens Road near Lami, the starting point is notoriously hard to locate and usually requires asking locals for directions.
Once you’re on the trail, the journey is divided into two sections. The first is an hour-long trek through dense rainforest, accompanied by the melodic calls of native birds. The second segment is a steeper ascent, taking between 20 and 40 minutes, depending on your fitness level. At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic vistas of Suva Harbor, downtown, and the rolling green hills beyond.
The clay trail’s steep incline can become slippery, so sturdy footwear is highly recommended. Additionally, be sure to pack plenty of water and other essentials in a backpack, leaving your hands free to grip branches and roots for extra support along the way.
In the heart of Suva lies Thurston Gardens, a verdant expanse of manicured lawns adorned with palms and native trees. This green enclave occupies the site where Suva’s first indigenous settlement was established in the 19th century. However, its history is marked by tragedy; the original town was destroyed during a tribal conflict, with some inhabitants falling victim to cannibalism.
Originally known as the Suva Botanical Gardens, the park was renamed in 1976 to honor Sir John Bates Thurston, Fiji’s fifth British governor. While its British influence is evident in the name, it’s also reflected in the 1918 European-style bandstand and clock tower, which stand as a vestige of the colonial era.
Though its golden era has long passed, Thurston Gardens remains a charming spot for a leisurely walk along its paved paths. Open to everyone, the gardens also house the Fiji Museum, where visitors can delve into the rich history and culture of the islands through its extensive collection of artifacts.
The British-style bandstand and clock tower in Thurston Gardens
photography by: Matthias Süßen