After gaining independence from Australia in 1975, Papua New Guinea emerged as the most ethnically diverse country in the world, home to over 800 distinct tribes, each of which boasts its own language and cultural practices. Given its multicultural nature, governing and politically representing the Papuan society is a challenging task, constantly requiring a balance between the various interests of the country’s ethnic groups.

Perhaps nowhere is the ongoing effort to consolidate national coherence more evident than at Papua New Guinea’s Parliament House. Situated in the suburb of Waigani, the modern legislative building reflects the nation’s multi-ethnic identity. The edifice is modeled after a traditional Haus Tambaran, prevalent throughout Maprik Province. These vernacular structures feature elongated ridge-poles alongside intricately painted gables, and historically served as centers for religious rituals, feasts, and community gatherings.

Interestingly, nearly every part of this monumental building is designed to represent a different region, coalescing together into a microcosm of the Papuan nation itself. The parliament complex is open to the public on weekdays. Once inside, visitors can wander its artifact-laden spaces and even watch parliamentary sessions from the public gallery.

A short walk away, the Papua New Guinea National Museum and Art Gallery have an ample collection of local tribal art, set amidst a quaint garden with sculptures and traditional Papuan architectural structures.

With rainforests covering more than 74 percent of its land area, Papua New Guinea stands as one of the most biodiverse countries on Earth. This island nation, though accounting for a mere 0.5% of the world’s land mass, boasts a whopping 8% of all vertebrate species.

Beyond a source of national pride, the ample fauna and flora attract intrepid nature lovers, for whom the the country’s dense jungles are the holy grail of wildlife watching. However, for those seeking an introduction to the island’s untamed nature before leaving the comforts of the big city, Port Moresby Nature Park near the main university offers precisely that.

Here, you can observe native species of mammals and birds as you stroll along one of the park’s well-kept trails. Among the animals who live here are cassowaries, birds of paradise, hornbills, tree-kangaroos and an aviary teeming with Victoria crowned pigeon – the world’s largest pigeon.

Bear in mind that some of the animals in the park are incredibly difficult to spot in the wild, making this perhaps your only chance to see these elusive critters.

The park is also replete with native plants, among which is an eye-catching collection of native orchids. Established in 1975 as botanical gardens, it was later upgraded to a nature park and conservation center for endangered endemic species. As this place is funded in part by tourist revenue, your visit directly aids critical conservation efforts.

Any experienced traveler knows that there’s probably no better place to learn about the local culture than a bustling market. In a non-touristy city like Port Moresby, authentic marketplaces can be found in every neighborhood.

Among the capital’s most interesting places to explore is Boroko Market, located in a suburb of Port Moresby. This open-air market features makeshift stalls offering a medley of fruits and vegetables showcased atop banana leaves. Some of the fruits one can find here include papayas, pineapples and coconuts, but also a couple of native and lesser-known ones as well, including Pandanus conoideus (red fruit), Malay apple and Burckella.

Just a few blocks away is the Boroko Handicrafts Market. Spanning across a triangular plot of land, this outdoor bazaar is awash with traditional souvenirs. Chief among them are the Papuan wooden carvings – ceremonial masks, tribal figurines and even furniture.

The market is also home to a surprisingly large garment section, where visitors can find various handmade items, including kina shell necklaces and Bilums, the Papuan-style bags crafted from woven plant fibers. These bags are highly versatile, with some used by mothers to carry their babies, a custom reflected in the word “Bilum”, which translates to “womb” in Tok Pisin.

By now, you’ve likely gathered that Port Moresby has a somewhat unflattering reputation. In fact, the city was ranked as one of the least livable in the world by The Economist. However, it might surprise you to learn that Port Moresby has its own version of Copacabana.

Ela Beach in downtown Port Moresby is a 1-kilometer-long sliver of coastal land whose soft white sand attracts city dwellers who come here in droves. It’s an ideal place to bask in the tropical Papuan sun and gaze at the waters of Walter Bay.

The beachfront recently underwent a major face-lift, now featuring a new promenade and several sports facilities, including volleyball and basketball courts. The true centerpiece of this beach, though, is the “Amazing Port Moresby” sculpture, which has since become a popular photo-op among visitors.

Every year on September 16th, Ela Beach becomes the main venue for the Hiri Moale Festival, a grand celebration marking Papua’s independence day. The highlight of this event is the maritime contest, where members of the Motu tribe flaunt their rowing prowess with the traditional Lakatoi watercrafts.

Fun fact, is that the nearby APEC Haus, which hosts international meetings and conferences, is architecturally inspired by these double-hulled boats.

Only three kilometers from Port Moresby’s modern business district, people live a simple lifestyle deeply connected to the ocean, something which defines every aspect of their identity.

The stilted villages of Koki and Poreporena are coastal fishing communities tucked away in the suburbs of Koki, east of the downtown area, and Poreporena, west of Port Moresby harbor. Known for their inhabitants’ fishing skills and makeshift housing, both hamlets offer their fair share of unusual sights to behold.

Each village is divided into several sections connected by large wooden walkways that function as the main streets. This grid-like network of footpaths is invariably brimming with activity, as members of these tightly-knit communities spend most of their time outdoors. It is for this reason that plucky visitors who come here will be greeted with a glut of curious stares and friendly calls.

Koki village also has two noteworthy markets. The Koki Market, where vendors sell a plethora of fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables, and in contrast, the Koki Fish Market, a stilted structure that is dedicated entirely to fish and seafood. Here, villagers display their catches, including crabs, lobsters, shellfish, barracudas, as well as a wide variety of native fish.

While these stilted communities are among Port Moresby’s most fascinating sites, they aren’t without their dangers. Unfortunately, akin to many parts of the capital city, mugging is still prevalent, so it’s best to visit them alongside a professional guide or a local to minimize any potential risk.

Similar to many other nations throughout Southeast Asia and the Pacific, Papua New Guinea was a bloody battleground between the Allies and Japanese forces in World War II, during which thousands of soldiers lost their lives.

The well-maintained necropolis features an expansive lawn dotted with neatly aligned white headstones, quintessential of WWII cemeteries. The view from the uphill gazebo overlooking the site is particularly awe-inspiring.

Staying in Port Moresby for longer than two days can be a challenging experience for some, after all, there’s a constant need to watch your back and carefully select where to go. A day trip to one of the many natural gems surrounding the city can offer a much-needed respite.

An hour’s drive from the downtown, Varirata National Park is as an ideal getaway from the crime-infested streets of Port Moresby. The park offers a glimpse of Papua New Guinea’s vast biodiversity, with sightings of kingfishers, cassowaries, and Raggiana birds of paradise, along with various other winged critters.

Nestled on the Sogeri Plateau, the park has a mélange of landscapes, ranging from pine woodlands to lush rainforests. It is crisscrossed by six official hiking trails, the longest of which takes around three hours to complete. At an elevation of 600-800 meters, the area is replete with scenic lookouts from where visitors can gaze all the way to Port Moresby and its surroundings.

Few kilometers west of Varirata, the Sirinumu Dam and the nearby manmade lake have recently become one of the area’s most popular eco-tourism locations. Visitors can enjoy lakeside picnics, a variety of water sports, and visits to local villages inhabited by the region’s indigenous people. For more details, visit the Facebook page of Sirinumu Dam eco-tourism.

As you’ve already realized, Port Moresby is widely recognized as unsafe by most standards, particularly for women. Incidents like mugging, car-jacking, and rape are unfortunately common in certain areas, often carried out by local criminal gangs known as Rascals.

Before any doubts creep in about your trip, let me assure you that a few simple precautions can significantly reduce most risks while you’re there:

1. Refrain from traveling or walking outside of your hotel during night-time, as miscreants are more active after dark.

2. Before heading out, always check with your hotel receptionist or a knowledgeable local about the safety of the area you plan to visit.

3. If you plan to venture outside the safe zones, do so only during daylight hours and with a local guide by your side.

4. If you encounter a gang member demanding your valuables, avoid confrontation as they can become violent if resisted.