Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple, Kyoto

Otagi Nenbutsu ji Temple Kyoto Japan 9

The Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple and its moss-covered sculptures

photography by: 663highland/ Wikimedia Commons

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From the radiant stained glass of Gothic cathedrals to the elaborate geometric motifs of Persian mosques and the sculpted pantheons crowning Hindu temples, art and faith have long been intertwined. Yet, few places of worship dare to embrace playful, eccentric aesthetics that defy convention. Hidden in Kyoto’s forested outskirts, the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Shrine harbors over a thousand stone figures, each with a distinct and often humorous expression that flummoxes their beholders.

In Kyoto’s western hills, nestled far beyond the city’s tourist-thronged shrines, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple stands out for its sheer quirkiness. Shaded by moss-covered trees, the secluded site is home to a whimsical cluster of a whopping 1,200 stone statues, each more unusual and expressive than the last. These sculptures, known as rakan, depict the disciples of Buddha, appearing less like solemn spiritual figures and more like an eclectic crowd of characters that brim with personality.

 

The temple’s story is one of perseverance. First erected in 770 near Kyoto’s Kamo River, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji was repeatedly ravaged by natural disasters. Floods, civil wars, and typhoons left the place in ruins multiple times. By the early 20th century, little remained of its original structure. To preserve what was left, the temple was relocated to its current hillside home in 1922, only to suffer further damage during a devastating typhoon in 1950.

 

In 1955, a new chapter began under Kocho Nishimura, a Buddhist monk and acclaimed sculptor. Nishimura transformed the temple into an open-air gallery, where art and devotion blend seamlessly in an unusual way. His idea was simple but bold: invite visitors and amateur sculptors to create their own rakan statues under his guidance. Between 1981 and 1991, volunteers from all walks of life came to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji to carve these stone figures.

 

The result is a nonpareil hodgepodge of characters, each boasting its own distinct expression and pose. There’s a statue clutching a tennis racket, another balancing a child on its knee, and a pair caught mid-laughter, sharing a cup of sake. Some gaze serenely into the distance, while others wear mischievous grins. The variety seems endless, something which reflects the myriad stories Nishimura’s students wished to tell through stone.

 

The statues, now draped in thick moss, have become part of a curious tradition. In fact, one popular challenge among visitors is to find the figure that resembles them the most.

 

Despite its novelty, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji remains somewhat off the beaten path. Reaching it requires a bit of a trek through a series of unassuming streets and wooded hills, but the journey is well worth it for those seeking to explore Kyoto’s quirkier side. As of 2025, the admission fee is 500 yen, and the peaceful vibes offer a refreshing respite from the city’s more crowded attractions.

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photography by: 663highland/ Wikimedia Commons

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photography by: 663highland/ Wikimedia Commons