Sometimes dubbed the North Korea of Central Asia, Turkmenistan is among the world’s whackiest and most reclusive countries. Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the ensuing independence, the nascent nation was ruled with an iron fist by Saparmurat Niyazov, a kooky tyrant with a fondness for preposterous edicts and exceedingly lavish architecture. Niyazov died in 2006 and while he might no longer be with us, remnants of his reign are scattered all over the country. Chief among them is an odd-looking monument in Ashgabat, known as the Arch of Neutrality. Representing Turkmenistan’s vow for non-alignment, the towering structure is perhaps the most unusual textbook example of Niyazov’s offbeat persona.
By: Ayna Usanov
Date: 17:45 18.08.24
Last Update: 17:47 18.08.24
During the reign of Saparmurat Niyazov, known also as the self-declared “President for Life” and “Turkmenbashi” (father of all Turkmen), the post-soviet republic of Turkmenistan was transformed into a surreal reflection of his authoritarian rule. Niyazov, infamous for his eccentric decrees—banning gold teeth, renaming months after his relatives, and prohibiting beards—created a state defined by his personal whims and relentless self-aggrandizement. At the pinnacle of this bizarre cult of personality was his feverish construction spree, during which the country’s capital was sprinkled with a series of misbegotten monuments and buildings.
Amid Ashgabat’s ever-expanding list of incongruous landmarks, one can find the Arch of Neutrality. Formerly towering 95 meters above the white-marble city, this quirky vestige of Niyazov era is both admired and ridiculed. The monument commemorates the country’s official declaration of neutrality, a status recognized by the United Nations in 1995. Built in 1998, this structure was intended to celebrate Turkmenistan’s commitment to non-alignment.
Supported by three massive pylons, its architectural design is inspired by a Turkmen hearth stand, symbolizing the stability of the state. At the apex of the monument, a 12-meter golden statue of the former president once revolved to follow the sun, something which reflected the extensive self-glorification he fostered during his rule. Although the statue no longer rotates, it still dominates the skyline, reminding all of Niyazov’s lasting influence in the nation he controlled for over two decades.
Beneath the gleaming gold statue lies a museum dedicated to the concept of neutrality in Turkmenistan, chronicling the country’s recent history and its pledge to remain neutral.
In 2010, four years after Niyazov’s death, his successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, ordered the relocation of the arch to the outskirts of Ashgabat. This move was part of a broader effort to downplay the excesses of Niyazov’s personality cult. The monument was dismantled and then reassembled near a busy highway, where it still stands today.
The arch is now surrounded by a landscaped park, awash with fountains, pavilions, and cafes, where the few visitors who come here often amble. The structure’s current whereabouts contrasts sharply with the monument’s original site in the city center, where it once epitomized Niyazov’s overwhelming presence in everyday life.
The structure’s surrounding plaza
photography by: Juris Paiders/ Flickr
photography by: Stefan Krasowski/ Flickr and Bayram A/ Wikimedia commons
The panoramic vistas from the observatory
photography by: John Pavelka/ Wikimedia commons
