During the Bosnian War from 1992 to 1995, Sarajevo was under siege with constant bombardment and sniper attacks, resulting in the deaths of over 11,500 people, 1,600 of whom were children. In places where mortar shells exploded during the conflict, deep scars were left in the concrete.

To honor those who lost their lives, these scars were filled with red resin, creating a floral pattern that led to them being dubbed “The Roses of Sarajevo.” Each rose represented a location where 3 or more people died, meaning that the abundance of these memorials throughout the city – initially over 200 in total – provided a graphic reminder of the bloodshed during those devastating years.

Due to the necessity of replacing damaged asphalt, only about 12 of these roses now remain. The maintenance and preservation of these unique mementos have been a collaborative effort, mainly through citizens’ associations who regularly check the craters and repair the damage caused by vehicles and pedestrian traffic.

This grassroots initiative epitomizes the commitment of the people of Sarajevo to preserve the collective memories of war and peace for future generations, thus ensuring that at least some remnants of its tumultuous past will remain a permanent feature of the urban landscape.

February 1984 saw Sarajevo hosting the Winter Olympic Games, the first time a Communist country held the event. Nestled in Trebević Mountain is a rare vestige of the games, a bobsled track that now sits abandoned. Once a bustling venue for bobsleigh and luge competitions, it welcomed athletes from almost 50 countries.

With the onset of the Yugoslav Wars and the subsequent Siege of Sarajevo, this structure was repurposed as an artillery site for occupying forces, leading to significant damage from drilling for defensive weaponry as well as bullet holes from frequent attacks.

In the years that followed, the 1,300-meter-long track was left abandoned, gradually reclaimed by nature. At the same time, it also turned into a canvas for graffiti artists, who have been regularly frequenting the site along with hikers and bikers.

While still in disrepair, there have been efforts to restore the 1,300-meter-long track. In fact, partial renovations have made it usable again for summer luge training, albeit its future as a winter venue remains largely uncertain due to the extensive damage it has sustained.

Accessible via cable car from Sarajevo City Hall, the journey to the track is accompanied by sweeping views of the city and the surrounding countryside. However, visitors are advised to stay on established paths due to the potential presence of landmines in off-trail areas.

Constructed primarily between 1912 and 1914, with further expansions occurring until 1948, the Jajce Kasarne barracks in Vratnik is a historical military complex located on a plateau within the southern part of medieval Sarajevo’s old town walls.

The complex’s most significant edifice features an E-shaped layout, purportedly to honor the Austrian-French commander Prince Eugene of Savoy, hence its original name—Prince Eugene Barracks. However, due to the prince’s controversial role in the sacking of Sarajevo during the late 17^th century, the building was later renamed “Jajce Barracks,” following the relocation of a Jajce-based military hospital to the site.

Over the years, the barracks changed hands multiple times, reflecting Sarajevo’s torrid political history. Post World War I, it was used by military forces of the State of Slovenes, Croats, and Serbs, and later the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. During World War II, it was taken over by the occupying fascist forces before becoming the property of the newly-formed Yugoslav National Army as soon as the conflict subsided.

The Siege of Sarajevo saw the barracks fall under the control of Bosnian troops, who soon thereafter faced severe shelling, leaving behind the visible damage still evident today.

Though recognized as a national monument in 2009, the site has been largely abandoned since 2002, and it is now in a state of alarming disrepair. Regulations protect it from property developers, but the plan to transfer ownership from the Bosnian Army to the Government is still being debated.

Meanwhile, the site continues to crumble and decay, accessible only to security guards on duty and also the most intrepid urbex enthusiasts who try to evade them.

Perched atop the southeastern slopes of the city, this ancient bastion, though now in ruins and obscured by graffiti, offers unparalleled views along the Miljacka River to the residential suburbs of western Sarajevo.

Standing at 667 meters above sea level on the city’s eastern side, within the walls of Vratnik’s historic fortified city, this site likely housed a fortress since medieval times. Sections were destroyed and rebuilt over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian periods, shaping the distinctive structure of its garrison.

The building’s rectangular base with towers at each corner points to its medieval origins (14^th to 15^th century), while its later modifications date back to the 18^th century, following the devastating sacking of Sarajevo in 1697.

The stout stone walls, ammunition stores, and embrasures for cannons are all clear indicators of its centuries-long role in defending the city against invasions.

Listed as a protected site since 1971, Bijela Tabija has been undergoing a reconstruction and preservation program since 1999, addressing years of neglect and devastation caused by direct shelling during the Bosnian War.

Though constructed by the Ottomans in the 16^th century, the Roman Bridge in Ilidža earns its name from the provenance of its materials—stones sourced from the ruins of the Roman settlement Aquae Sulphurae.

Spanning 40 meters over the crystal-clear waters of the Bosna River, the well-preserved, seven-arched structure features Roman spolia, including a stone adorned with an abstract figure relief that has puzzled experts about its origins.

It is one of four old stone bridges that have stood the test of time, alongside the Šeher-Ćehaja Bridge, the Latin Bridge, and the Kozija Bridge.

The surrounding area, which offers free parking and no entrance fee, includes a small park with picnic spots, a refreshing respite from the city’s otherwise hustle and bustle.

Devised as a secret project during the Siege of Sarajevo, the Tunnel of Hope provided a vital lifeline to thousands of Bosnians trapped in the city during the brutal years from 1993 to 1995. Built by the Bosnian army over four months and four days, the purpose of the underground passage was to connect the Serbian-occupied neighborhood of Dobrinja to the free Bosnian territory of Butmir.

Passing under the UN-controlled airport, “Tunnel D-B” enabled the transport of food, weapons, and humanitarian aid into the city. It also offered a vital communication link with the outside world and a costly escape option for those who could afford safe passage.

With 128 people digging from one end and 132 from the other, workers employed simple tools such as pickaxes and shovels, laboring in 8-hour shifts lit solely by makeshift “war candles.”

They were paid in a single packet of cigarettes per person per day and faced daily bombing and artillery fire as the occupation forces tried to locate the tunnel entrances. The end result was a low (1.6m) and narrow (1m) tunnel, stretching approximately 800 meters in length. While beset with problems such as flooding and notoriously poor ventilation, the subterranean passage still managed to successfully support a pipeline, electricity cables, and even a small railway track to transport supplies.

The entrance on the Dobrinja side was a garage in an apartment building, while the Butmir side entrance was the Kolar family’s home, both surrounded by trenches and guarded by Bosnian army troops.

After the war, the Kolar family sought to preserve the tunnel that had saved an estimated 300,000 lives. They converted the garage into a museum, initially without any government financial support. Today, visitors can walk through a 20-meter segment of the tunnel and explore exhibits showcasing its history and the city’s endurance during the conflict.

Nestled in Sarajevo’s Hastahana Park, the Sternenweg Sculpture stands as a remarkable testament to art’s capacity to unify communities. The brainchild of German artist Helmut Lutz, this extensive abstract installation doubles as an interactive jungle gym and a complex noise-making apparatus.

The sculpture comprises a hodgepodge of objects such as trumpets, exotic effigies, animal heads, oversized ears, and tubular spirals, all coalescing into an immersive experience that transcends conventional art forms.

Gifted to Sarajevo by the German city of Friedrichshafen in 2005, the installation of the Sternenweg (meaning “Road under the Stars”) in Hastahana Park marked the culmination of a 30-year journey, during which it was displayed in various locations, including Santiago de Compostela, Rome, and even in front of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.

The sculpture became embroiled in controversy in 2020, when city workers began to dismantle it with no warning in order to make way for a car park. This unexpected development was met with immediate opposition from local citizens who regarded the monument as part of the neighborhood’s cultural heritage.

The ensuing media attention exerted significant pressure on the municipal authorities, and the sculpture was eventually rebuilt under the supervision of Lutz’s son. Since then, it has been awed by onlookers once again, as if it was never torn down.

Taking its name from the brick factory constructed there in 1879, Sarajevo’s Ciglane (meaning brickyard) neighborhood plays an important role in the city’s modern history.

Built during the Yugoslav era from 1976 to 1989, the neighborhood’s terraced hillside complex is split into three tiers of brutalist architecture, with the grey walls providing an ideal canvas for muralists to showcase their talents. Though the socialist-style housing looks somewhat run-down, it is still home to many of the city’s residents, the majority of whom regularly frequent the nearby flea market renowned for its vibrant atmosphere.

A standout feature of the plateaued complex is the Kosi lift, a funicular constructed to facilitate easy traversal of the steep cliffside apartments. Yet, as years passed, the transport system deteriorated, plagued by aging tracks that often interrupted service and demanded continuous upkeep.

A major reconstruction project began in 2018 and was finally completed in 2023, with the new lift offering access to higher parts of the cliff for sweeping views of the city below. The lift costs 0.5 convertible marks and saves visitors the effort of climbing the 414 steep steps to the top of the escarpment.