An autonomous cultural enclave in the heart of Ljubljana, Metelkova Mesto is the poster child of the city’s complex and contested history. Once a military barracks under the Austro-Hungarian Empire and later the Yugoslav People’s Army, this area was transformed in 1993 when a group of squatters took over the abandoned buildings. These seven structures, covering 12,500 square meters, now constitute a vibrant hub for artists, activists, and other creators, all of whom have reclaimed the space as their own.

Over the years, the exterior walls across Metelkova turned into a canvas for dozens of artists who collaboratively transformed the nondescript buildings into an open-air museum. Nevertheless, the center is not just an art space; it’s a living, breathing community where independent cultural projects thrive, and alternative voices find a platform. Since its establishment, it has evolved into a haven for those seeking to explore and express their identities, free from any constraints posed by mainstream society.

Despite its turbulent relationship with local authorities, Metelkova was recognized as a national cultural heritage site in 2005, securing its status in the Slovenian capital. Today, it stands as an ex-territory where grassroots activism and creative freedom reign supreme.

Nestled near Fužine Castle, just east of Ljubljana’s city center, the Labyrinth of Art (known locally as Labirint Umetnosti) is a living art installation that might seem like an unassuming grove from afar. Created in 2011 by Bulgarian artist Venelin Shurlov along with the Bruto team, the labyrinth comprises 287 Canadian hemlocks, collectively coalescing into a verdant maze that invites visitors to lose themselves within its confines. Unlike traditional labyrinths, whose canopies are often manicured to perfection, this one was intentionally left to grow naturally, with its conifers left untrimmed, adding a raw, organic feel to the experience.

The project was not without its challenges, though. The nearby psychiatric hospital required that the chosen trees be non-toxic, a precaution rooted in past tragedies. Canadian hemlock, while not native to the gravelly soil of the site, was selected for its safety and aesthetic qualities. Despite initial controversy and skepticism from experts who doubted the suitability of these trees in such an environment, the hemlocks have thrived against the odds, now standing tall a decade after their planting.

If you manage to find your way into the middle of the labyrinth, you’ll come across a secluded glade that offers a serene space designed for reading and reflection.

 

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Overlooking Ljubljana’s historic core, Castle Hill serves as an impressive vantage point for the entire city. This wooded hilltop, crowned by the famous Ljubljana Castle, is crisscrossed with footpaths that meander through the dense forest.

Among these paths, one stands out—a trail that traces the remains of the Šance fortifications. Originally a formidable 16^th-century defense structure connected to the castle, this area was remodeled in the late 1930s by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who turned the ruins into a shaded promenade lined with trees. The restoration works also encompassed the walls, stairways, and loggias, reviving the long-forgotten site.

Since then, the formerly strategic bastion that once warded off invaders has been attracting both visitors and locals who, in turn, look for a secluded nook. To get here, follow the trail that starts in the heart of the city, which leads hikers to the summit within 20 minutes or so.

Long before the Slovenian capital was founded, the area on which the city now stands was home to a Roman settlement named Emona. Some remnants of Ljubljana’s Roman past can be found in the Jakopič Garden. Christened after Slovenian Impressionist painter Rihard Jakopič, it is home to the remains of Emonska Hiša, a grand Roman residence spanning roughly 500 square meters, believed to have housed a wealthy family during the first century BC.

Meticulously renovated in 2012, the park uncovers the daily lives of Emona’s elite, whose culture tells the story of a civilization long past.

Visitors can now explore the ancient structure, better known as House No. 15a. Throughout its existence, the edifice underwent several extensions and modifications that are still visible to this day. Chief among them was the construction of a central heating system. This hypocaust system, designed to channel warm air through underfloor chambers and hollow bricks embedded in the walls, ensured that the residents could enjoy cozy warmth during the harsh winters.

Right next to it is the main room, adorned with a well-preserved mosaic floor featuring a geometric design with two prime colors—a hallmark of 4^th-century Roman artistry.

Sandwiched between a pair of unpretentious buildings on Gornji trg, the passage of Preduh invites occasional passersby to step back in time. This narrow, medieval tunnel, barely wide enough for a single person, extends only a few meters before ending abruptly at a locked door. Though its purpose might seem ambiguous, the tunnel served a practical and vital role during the Middle Ages.

Designed as a firebreak, the alley provided a crucial buffer between neighboring homes, preventing flames from leaping from one building to the next during a blaze. The tunnel also facilitated ventilation by enabling air to circulate and dry the walls of these perpetually shaded structures. Yet, the tunnel didn’t revolve solely around its original function. According to local lore, it earned the apt moniker “Scheißgasse” (excrement street) due to the less-than-sanitary practice of local residents dumping waste from their windows into the passageway below.

Today, the passage stands as one of the few remaining examples of such medieval architecture anywhere in Ljubljana. Strung with decorative lights and marked by a plaque explaining its history, this claustrophobic alley is a reminder that even the narrowest of spaces can hold centuries of stories.

At 530 meters, Debnem Vrhu is the highest peak in the Kašeljski Grič range. Located between the Besnica Valley and the lower stretch of the Ljubljanica River, the hilltop provides sweeping panoramas of the Ljubljana basin and its surrounding hills.

Beyond its coveted status as the region’s highest point, the wooded summit is home to the Debnem Vrhu Observation Tower, a wooden structure that extends above the treetops, from where one can admire the commanding views over the city’s eastern outskirts. Erected in the late 1990s by a group of local residents under the guidance of the Zalog Retired Association, it lies atop the ruins of a German-Italian watchtower, a vestige of World War II. Oddly enough, this low-key lookout tower has gained a small, yet dedicated group of fans who went as far as creating a Facebook Page in its honor.

In recent years, the surrounding forest has become a favorite getaway among Ljubljanans. Well-marked trails lead hikers through the dense forest to this secluded spot from various starting points, including Zalog, Sostro, and Podgrad.

Alongside the aforementioned Emonska Hiša, the Roman town walls in Mirje Street pride themselves on being some of Ljubljana’s most well-preserved relics of its ancient past. Constructed between 14 and 15 AD, these ramparts once encircled the Roman town of Emona, safeguarding its inhabitants from potential invaders.

Stretching up to 8 meters in height and 2.5 meters in thickness, the walls were originally fortified by at least 26 towers and four main gates, strategically placed to protect vital entry points to the townlet. The elaborate construction, with its core of river pebbles, rocks, sand, and lime, has withstood the test of time, with some sections surviving for nearly two millennia.

In the 1930s, Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik took on the task of restoring the wall’s extant segments, something he opted to do in a rather unusual way, one that some even consider controversial. His additions included a quirky stone pyramid, multiple gates, and an arched vault fashioned from nearby detritus of former Roman structures. This mosaic of old and new is now one of the city’s most interesting historical monuments.

Covering more than 160 square kilometers, the Ljubljana Marsh is the country’s largest cluster of wetlands, and as such, provides a vast habitat for dozens of animal species. Nestled amid the marshes is a reconstruction of a prehistoric settlement that dates back to the 3^rd millennium BC. This site, known as Koliščarsko Naselje, offers a glimpse into the lives of the ancient pile dwellers, or “Morostari,” who once inhabited this swampy terrain.

The settlement consists of five intricately constructed huts, three of which stand on stilts over a small artificial lake, while the remaining two are perched on solid marshland nearby. These wooden structures, with their thatched roofs and pole-framed skeletons, were built using traditional techniques, with wooden stilts driven deep into the swampy earth to protect against floods.

Inside the huts, visitors can find displays of tools, pottery, and animal skins, all used by the area’s early settlers. Two of the huts have been left bare, revealing the construction methods that allowed these early inhabitants to thrive in such a challenging environment.