Over the last century, cities across the world have expanded at an extraordinary pace, with rural areas gobbled up by the incessant urbanization. Yet, some green enclaves have dodged this fate and in turn became green oases amid an urban wasteland. Just beside Madrid’s international airport, El Capricho Park is one such refuge. Dotted with historic buildings, and crisscrossed by walkways and canals, it is among the city’s lesser-known parks, and as such, remains a relatively serene spot all year round.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 16:08 18.10.24
Last Update: 16:08 18.10.24
In the late 18th century, Spain was in the midst of significant change, as its capital, Madrid, began expanding rapidly beyond its medieval boundaries. Back then, the city’s growth was propelled by the monarchy and aristocracy, who sought to modernize both its infrastructure and its institutions.
Meanwhile, sections of Madrid’s rural outskirts held on to their pastoral identity. These lush areas, dotted with farmlands and estates, became popular refuges for the wealthy, providing a quiet escape from the increasingly crowded city center.
Against this backdrop, the Duchess of Osuna, a key figure among Spain’s nobility, embarked on a personal project that mirrored the artistic trends of her era. Drawing inspiration from her travels across Europe, where grand estates and ornate gardens were in vogue, she envisioned crafting her own sanctuary of beauty.
No sooner said than done, in 1783, the Duchess swiftly put her vision into action by acquiring a plot on the southern fringes of the city. Within two years, her dream of a garden began to take shape, eventually unfolding over the next two decades into the hidden gem she had long imagined.
Named El Capricho, meaning “the whim”, the lush park was conceived as a retreat for aristocrats seeking peace from the social unrest of the time. Over the years, it became a favored meeting place for thinkers, artists, and even bullfighters. Yet, after the Duchess’s death, the garden slowly, but steadily fell into a state of disrepair.
After years of abandonment, Madrid’s City Council stepped in to restore the garden in 1974. Following extensive restoration efforts between 1986 and 1992, El Capricho regained much of its former charm. Today, it remains a quiet retreat, attracting only a small fraction of the tourists who crowd the city’s more renowned parks.
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
The garden’s iron-wrought footbridge
photography by: Xauxa Håkan Svensson/ Wikimedia Commons
El Capricho’s labyrinth
photography by: Xauxa Håkan Svensson/ Wikimedia Commons
The Dolphins Fountain (Fuente de los Delfines)
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
Despite its somewhat secluded location, El Capricho Park remains one of only few 18th-century gardens to stand the test of time. Its 14 hectares showcase a hodgepodge of French formal gardens, English natural landscapes, and Italian flair. Every detail, from its immaculate hedges to its placid ponds, reveals the meticulous craftsmanship behind its creation.
As you stroll through the park, you’ll uncover various historical relics, each of which has its own story to tell. At the park’s center, an elaborate labyrinth of tall, meticulously groomed hedges invites visitors to lose themselves within its twists and turns. Not far off, one can find a gazebo entitled “Templete de Baco” whose columned structure is dedicated to Bacchus, the Roman god of wine. In recent years, this rotunda attracted Instagrammers and soon-to-be-wed couples, drawn to its beauty for pre-wedding photo ops.
The park is also home to several quaint buildings like the Casino de Baile, a dance hall where the elite once held lavish gatherings. Winding its way through the garden is an artificial canal known as “La Ría”, a murky stream brimming with fish and other aquatic life that can be crossed by an ornate iron bridge. Nearby, a swan-filled pond boasts a rocky islet, conspicuously nestled in its pint-sized waterscape.
One of the park’s more surprising features, though, is an abandoned bunker dating back to the Spanish Civil War. Constructed in 1937, it served as the command center for the Republican Army of the Central Region. Hidden underground, this shelter has endured the chaos of war, remaining remarkably intact as a silent reminder of Spain’s turbulent past.
This shelter comprises seven rectangular rooms, four aligned to the right and three to the left, featuring four exits that open into the park. A gallery stretches from the shelter to the street, passing through the basement of the Duques de Osuna Palace. Free 30-minute guided tours are available on weekends for groups of up to 20. Booking in advance via the official reservation website is necessary.
Templete de Baco
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Viviendo Madrid/ Wikimedia Commons
An underground bunker that dates back to the Spanish Civil War
photography by: Hispania Nostra/ Wikimedia Commons
The Swan Pond
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
Xauxa Håkan Svensson/ Wikimedia Commons
photography by: Casa de la Vieja
photography by: Carlos Delgado/ Wikimedia Commons
