In a town renowned for its copious waterfalls, it is often too easy to miss the least known ones. Well-ensconced within the forested outskirts of Baños, El Silencio (Chamana) and Ulba waterfalls rarely draw more than a handful of visitors per day. One might assume their anonymity signals dullness, but nothing could be further from the truth as these twin cascades are hidden gems that inspire awe among their beholders.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 01:45 04.07.24
Last Update: 02:29 08.07.24
Meandering nearly 800 kilometers across the lush forests of Ecuador and Peru, the Pastaza River stands as one of the Amazon’s major tributaries. When it reaches the Ecuadorian city of Baños de Agua Santa, the river along with its nearby headwaters leave a series of spectacular waterfalls in their wake.
This string of falls is particularly popular among cyclists who access them through the aptly-named “Ruta de las Cascadas” (the Waterfalls Route), a 25-kilometer-long bicycle trail that follows the Río Pastaza. Along the route, intrepid visitors will find ziplines, swings, aerial tramways, bungee jumping platforms, whimsically-designed lookouts and perhaps most strikingly, waterfalls – a lot of them.
While Pailón de Diablo easily outshines nearly all of its smaller siblings, there are also several hidden cascades along the route that remain out of the spotlight. Two of which are Cascada Ulba and Cascada del Silencio, a pair of waterfalls whose remote whereabouts keep them crowd-free throughout the year.
Located in the rural parish of Ulba, south of Vía a Baños (E30 road), the waterfalls are both fed by two small tributaries of the Pastaza River – Cascada Ulba by Rio Ulba, and Cascada del Silencio by Rio Chamana. After finding the easy to miss, unassuming gate (and the official trailhead), visitors should follow the muddy path that meanders downhill through the wooded area.
A short walk, during which faint roars hint at what lies ahead, leads to a scenic viewpoint offering a distant glimpse of the Ulba Waterfall. This 40-meter-tall waterfall violently plunges into a natural pool where, depending on the season and the intensity of the stream, one can wade in its bone-chilling waters.
Further afield is Cascada del Silencio (known also as Cascada de Chamana), a cluster of 7 small waterfalls that cascade 42 meters, leaving any nearby onlookers water-drenched. Unlike its more secluded counterpart, it is located at the heart of the hamlet, with its upstream segment bordered by a smattering of houses.
The area is also brimming with endemic wildlife, including white-fronted capuchins, tapirs, porcupines, lowland pacas, anteaters and even the illusive pumas. The easiest critters to spot, though, are the numerous butterflies flaunting their colorful wings. Keen-eyed visitors may also notice the various orchids scattered across the forest, distinguished from each other by color and shape.
To get here, take the turn to Av. Chamana from E30 until you see a sign indicating the waterfalls. It’s either a 40-minute walk or a 15-minute drive from downtown Baños. Though an entry fee of 1 USD is theoretically required, in the absence of a guard to collect it, access is free of charge.
The entrance gate
photography by: Omri Westmark
The main trail
photography by: Omri Westmark
Ulba Waterfall as viewed from afar
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
Cascada Ulba
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
Cascada del Silencio
photography by: Omri Westmark
One of the area’s eye-catching orchids
photography by: Omri Westmark
The surrounding hamlet
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
