Within the hilly foothills of the Ecuadorian Andes lies a remote town whose Cinderella story has inspired millions far beyond its confines. Despite its somewhat modest size, Salinas de Guaranda boasts plenty of interesting places to explore, including a series of food-processing plants, scenic lookouts, hiking trails and perhaps most notably, its name’s muse, the nearby salt mines. Given Salinas’ remoteness, coming here may not be easy, but those determined enough to make the journey will find it well worth the effort.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 23:16 19.07.24
Last Update: 23:21 19.07.24
Aptly named after its nearby salt mines and the provincial capital, Salinas de Guaranda, or simply Salinas, was formally established in 1884. However, the surrounding parish has been continuously inhabited since Pre-Inca times, when the rural community’s livelihood depended almost entirely on the area’s ample salt mines.
In bygone days, the extracted salt was used as currency for trading goods, initially by the local indigenous groups known as Puruhás and later, by the Incan chiefs who seized control of the region.
Following the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the Americas, the hacienda system was introduced to the territory in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, during which the natives along with mestizos were forced to labor for the landowners. In return, they received a shelter as well as a limited access to basic services.
It wasn’t until the 1950s that the land was redistributed to the descendants of the indigenous laborers who had long been deprived of their rights. Be that as it may, despite gaining land ownership and access to abundant deposits of salt, the townsfolk were still poverty-stricken, with little to no hope for a brighter future.
That all changed in 1971, thanks to the resourcefulness of one individual. It was during this year that Salesian priest and missioner Antonio Polo settled in the village and witnessed the widespread hardships. Determined to forge a new path for Salinas, Polo encouraged the villagers to start collectively-owned businesses, providing them with the necessary equipment and know-how to make it possible.
Soon thereafter, the village’s first enterprise, Salinas’ cheese factory, came into being, followed later by other companies producing chocolate, liquors, dried mushrooms, traditional garments and more. In a matter of a few decades, Polo not only managed to lift all Salineritos out of poverty, but also cemented the town’s role as a nationwide hub for manufacturing, whose goods and wares are exported throughout the country and beyond.
In recent years, Salinas also became a tourist destination that attracts intrepid visitors who wish to explore Ecuador’s off the beaten path countryside. Those who come here should expect laid back vibes and copious natural gems a stone’s throw away. The town’s visitor center offers guided tours in and around Salinas, including a trip to some of its nationally-renowned factories.
The village is home to numerous shops where one can find various products that are manufactured here, chief among them is the local brand “Salinerito”. A grocery store in front of the main square boasts a wide variety of locally-produced cheeses, sausages, confectionaries, relishes and chocolate, to name just a few.
While the easiest way of getting here is by car, the town is also served by several buses from Guayaquil, Guaranda (operated by Transportes Cándido Rada from Plaza Roja) and Cuatro Esquinas. Alternatively, TranSalinerito offers a pickup service from nearby Guaranda for a few dollars or so. For those wishing to explore the surrounding nature at a leisurely pace, there are a few accommodation options available.
The entrance to Salinas
photography by: Omri Westmark
The local market
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
“Salinas” letters monument at the main square
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The town’s main square
photography by: Omri Westmark
A grocery shop offering an assortment of locally-manufactured products
photography by: Omri Westmark
Salinas’ graveyard
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
For decades, Salinas faced relentless deforestation, as thousands of trees were felled each year to meet the insatiable demands of the local salt industry. The timber was then used as fuel to boil the mined brine, extracting table salt in the process.
Since the early 1970s, when most of the salt mines were closed, the town has worked to restore its surrounding forests. As more and more tourists discovered Salinas and its natural beauty, several initiatives have been undertaken to turn the once dystopian wasteland into a green oasis once again, including the reintroduction of various native plants.
To the north, the village borders a steep, wooded slope, crisscrossed with number of hiking trails that meander through the hillside before converging at a stairway leading to a colorfully painted viewing platform. From there, visitors can gaze at the entire town and glimpse the verdant mountains encircling it. Just a few steps ahead, a large cross marks the hilltop with its divine presence.
Heading north along the pathway leads to Salinas’ ecological park. Spanning the wooded creek along the Tiahua River, this narrow sliver of land is flanked by towering cliffs reminiscent of citadel walls. These vertical bluffs house several caves that were inhabited during the Pre-Inca era, with the most notable being Cueva de dos Pisos.
Well ensconced within the dense forest is Laguna de los Sueños, or the Lagoon of Dreams. This pint-sized pond, adorned with a Catholic shrine atop a gentle cascade, is part of an ecological park. Story has it that its tiny size was intentionally designed to reflect the town’s resourcefulness, as Salinas kicks well above its weight.
The main entrance to the network of hiking trails
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The cross atop the hill overlooking the town
photography by: Omri Westmark
The colorful scenic lookout
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The burgeoning cliffs on the outskirts of town
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
Laguna de los Sueños
photography by: Omri Westmark
No place is more synonymous with the town than its now mostly defunct salt mines, after all, Salinas derives its name from these ancient deposits of white gold. Long before the Spaniards set foot in the area, the extracted salt was the economic mainstay of the locals.
In colonial times, indigenous people were exploited to transport salt to Guayaquil, where they were paid in gold, which they then had to surrender to their wealthy landowners. This exploitation left the community in persistent impoverishment.
The mines were operated by the injection of water into the salt deposit through a well. As the water dissolved the salt, it formed a brine as a result. The solution, now infused with salt, was then pumped back through another well. Once at the surface, the brine was boiled using timber, leaving behind solid salt crystals.
Following Antonio Polo’s arrival to Salinas, the town rapidly industrialized, something which rendered the salt mines largely redundant. By the 1970s, mining had ceased, and the abandoned site have since become a quirky tourist attraction for the few visitors who occasionally explore the area.
The barren landscape abounds with crystalline rock formations, interspersed with small pools of rainwater. The color scheme here varies from pitch black to brownish and yellowish hues, making it strikingly distinct amid the otherwise verdant surroundings.
Located south of the village, the former mine is accessible via a long stairway descending the steep slope to the clear river at the ravine’s bottom. After crossing the pedestrian bridge over the stream, you’ll come across the craggy wasteland.
Overlooking the brine pits stands a statue that pays tribute to the Virgin of Aguasal. According to the lore, this mysterious figure roamed the mines during colonial times, helping laborers in coping with the harsh conditions. The workers, in turn, prayed for her to end their suffering.
After their invocations were answered and the mines were closed, the townspeople erected a monument honoring the venerated virgin. The sculpture comprises a white arc rising over two figures, one of the Virgin of Aguasal, and the other, depicting a villager carrying knapsack full of salt, symbolizing the lasting affinity between the miracle-making maiden and the hamlet’s helots.
The steps connecting the town with the abandoned salt mines
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The nearby river
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The defunct mines
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
A rainwater puddle
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
The monument of Virgin of Aguasal
photography by: Omri Westmark
