The Vietnamese capital is home to a glut of iconic temples, yet only one proudly claims to be older than any of its counterparts. Located in the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Bach Ma Temple is believed to have stood for nearly a millennium. According to lore, the temple was erected by the emperor of Đại Việt as a tribute to his white horse, which is beautifully represented by an equine statue that now adorns the shrine’s main chamber.
By: Omri Westmark
Date: 23:18 29.10.23
Last Update: 12:35 06.02.25
Whoever visits the hectic city of Hanoi will come across dozens, if not hundreds, of temples and pagodas dotting its bustling streets. Standing out among the copious shrines is an unassuming temple that can trace its roots back to the 11th century, making it the oldest place of worship in the city.
Located at the intersection of P. Hàng Buồm and P. Hàng Giầy streets in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Bach Ma Temple might not seem remarkable at first glance, yet behind its yellow, nondescript façade lies a treasure trove of history that offers a glimpse into the city’s bygone era.
In 1010, Emperor Ly Thai To decided to move the capital of Đại Việt, the precursor of modern-day Vietnam, from Hoa Lu (Ninh Binh) to Thang Long, better known as Hanoi. Legend has it that despite multiple attempts to encircle the town with a fortified wall, the structure collapsed each time upon completion.
Desperate for divine intervention, the emperor sent a delegation of supplicants to attend a mass prayer in a nearby 9th-century shrine, whose worshiped deity had appeared several times in his dreams. Shortly thereafter, a white horse galloped out of the temple, leaving a trail of hoofprints in its wake.
In the aftermath of this oddity, the emperor opted to construct the city walls along the path left by the ivory-hued beast. Miraculously, this time, the ramparts stood the test of time, rewarding Ly Thai To for his ardent faith. As a tribute to the generous deity and his white horse, he commissioned the construction of the aptly named Bach Ma Temple—Bạch Mã in Vietnamese literally means “white horse.”
Following several reconstructions, the millennium-old temple’s current structure dates back to the 18th century, but make no mistake, the place fully resonates with its wondrous past. In fact, the centerpiece of the shrine is an exceedingly ornate sanctum, where a sculpted white equine pays homage to his legendary counterpart, who is still regarded by many in Vietnam as a national superhero.
The temple’s main façade
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
photography by: Omri Westmark
A statue of a white horse, commemorating the emperor’s mythical beast
photography by: Omri Westmark
Bach Ma Temple’s white horse
photography by: Omri Westmark
